Cadaques, North East Spain

The cloudy grayness of last week has given way to a sun that now warms worn terracotta roofs and lazy cats lolling outside doorways. The light washes down across the bay, and makes shadows upon the water flutter and dance. In the garden, a slight wind buffets the potted palm in its outside pot, complimenting the light and demanding that a watercolor of the scene be drawn.

From the garden terrace I can really appreciate Cadaques in all its whiteness, at times when it seems ancient and a little magical. To stand on the hill and look down upon the town is like sitting in the gods at the theatre, watching some vast exquisitely propped play as time speeds by. The clouds roll in, the sun descends behind olive green peaks and the moon rises elegantly to cast its light upon the sea. The street lamps go on across the beachfront, the shops close and the bars open, one half of the populous makes room for the other half. Soon the sun rises again, casting her pink flame over the crags and rocks of Cap De Creus, hitting the lighthouse before cutting gracefully to her place high above the Casino and the olive trees.

We watch all this from our hill, binoculars and naked eyes scanning the road that snakes along the waterfront, removed by vegetation from any activity past our garden walls. A few streets distant scooters buzz through the cobbled streets, on the beach tourist boats crash against the shore, cooks and waiters take a quick cigarette break before plunging back to the steaming inferno of the kitchens dotted around town. Up here however an air of scholarly seriousness looms over everything. A cardboard box is tacked up against the window, taped calendars and timetables replacing the view of church spire and garden poplar with proof of our academia. Our math work is temporarily laid aside, SAT books replaced by reams of poetry translations for our next project, the writing of a five page paper. And outside the sun drags lower in the sky and activity trickles downwards in tempo as the night appears.


Steve on the hill above Cadaques