Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Franklin Pierce University, Rindge, NH

Now is the chance to see if I can combine schoolwork and blogging without churning out endless reams of lame rhetoric designed to make me pass exams. The idea is that, if I can, then at least I know my essays have reached some acceptable standard for showing them to the wider world holds me accountable. Now, I shall be writing about uni in general as soon as I can, and supplying pictures as well. It’s been a roller coaster of an experience already, with new people coming to and fro like characters in some Evelyn Waugh novel, and experiences taking place that are almost as surreal and bizarre in their unexpectedness as those from the backpackers road.
The following piece was for my creating writing course. As I know that my father will be reading this and crying out for progress reports and proof of money well spent, I can reveal that I was awarded my first A for it.


Scotland and me

I grew up, I think now, in a time and place that suited me perfectly. The reels dances in pine halls, dinner parties between dear friends, stalking in the highlands over the summers and shooting pheasants in the winter, the old fashioned ways were supremely comforting for me. While my brother would later reject the way we were brought up, sporting bleached blonde hair and moving to Edinburgh I embraced it.
There are many memories I have of Scotland, the land of my birth. I see it when I close my eyes, high mountains of green, grey and purple crashing down sharply to the churning Northern Sea. It is part of me, this expanse of springy heather and harsh granite, a land without pity or sentimentality. I am like it in many ways, proud and distant at times and light and joyous at others, keeping to my ways while the rest of world moves on. It forms the basic structure of who I am.
One memory of growing up in Scotland sticks out above the others, a thought of happy childhood that leaves me with the strong smell of wood smoke in my nose and the taste of fresh mince pies in my mouth. It is one of the straws I can grasp onto, when life gets too much and I feel very, very far from home. It reminds me of who I am, and gives me pride in the pit of my heart, pride enough to stand up straight and face my troubles. It is the memory of winters spent working on my godfathers estate as a beater, trudging through mud with a stick in one hand and a old army kitbag belonging to my mother over one shoulder, following the noise of shotguns into woods.
I remember. I would gather with the men in the early hours of the morning outside Hatton Castle, all of them bigger and gruffer than me, their thick bodies in Barbour jackets and heads hidden by threadbare caps, dirty country dogs winding between their feet. They were good sorts these country men, letting a young boy in thick gloves and a woolly jumper under his anorak stand next to them shivering. They would offer me small sips of whiskey to protect me against the cold, laugh and joke to make me feel included. At the time I don’t think that Jamie, my brother, really understood why I loved working outside so much, for he was blessed with an easy disposition and making friends came naturally to him. For me it was different, I was awkward and troubled growing up, I felt a deeper connection to the windy forests of Hatton, Bortie and Haddo than I did to my own peer group.
Standing by the beaters shed, as we waited for the day to begin, I felt part of something bigger and that was supremely comforting. Eventually, just when we were beginning to get cold, a tractor belching smoke would rumble slowly forward along the country lanes, a horsebox hung on the back. We would all ride inside the box upon bales of straw, good training for me as later I would encounter similar conditions hitchhiking in Guatemala. Dozens of dogs would be squashed between our legs and we in turn were wedged against each other, our only light a narrow strip around the roof of the trailer.
I remember being happy as we were jolted too and fro, I felt I belonged there, felt part of something bigger than I, part of the highlands. I would look at the shadowy, laughing faces opposite and feel tradition run through me. Eventually though the tractor would stop and we’d all climb slowly out though the dogs would shoot through our legs to land writhing in the cold grass and moss. A man would hand us wooden clappers and sack-cloth flags which we’d stick under our arms or wedge into thick pockets. Then we would walk.
Later in the forest, we would stand waiting, breath steaming in the cold, feet stamping down hard on wet leaves to keep our circulation going. The bare branches of the trees reached up above us like grasping fingers and looking up past them I could see a lone pigeon wheeling lonely in the crisp air. In that moment I felt connected to this land, to the huge beech woods and rolling fields in fallow beyond, the burns lying dormant under thick sheets of ice and the dark castle brooding under a thin plume of smoke rising from the fireplaces.
A shout would make me pay attention, a thick Scottish accent telling us to “come on boys, get up boys.” I’d unfurl my flag and, in time with the others, flick it towards the ground so that it made a sharp crack. A line of us, thirty or forty, would advance into the woods and all my thoughts would vanish as some primeval thrill took control of my body. With a clackclackclack the clappers would start, the dogs would be let off straining leashes and the hunt was on. My heart would beat fast as we entered the woody undergrowth, like every small child aping adults I wished desperately not to muck up, not to trip and fall. I’d stumble forward quickly, trying to keep in line with the others and suddenly, with a beating of wings and strange burbling noise a female pheasant would shoot upwards from the frosty bracken and disappear forward above the trees.
The birds would appear in a flash, and be gone in the next instant, dozens of them, leaping upwards to be lost in the cold air as they sought to escape the impending danger of man and beast. After a moment there would be a sharp pum, pum as shotguns were discharged from a field we could not see. The paying customers or invited friends of the Laird, the lord of the castle, would stand, no more than ten of them in a straight and orderly line and wait for the birds to appear fast overhead. We many beaters, with out sticks and dogs were but an expensive decoy employed by the privileged few, scaring innocent fowl up over the trees and into impending death.
As a child any humanitarian concerns were lost to me, blood thirsty and excitable I would want the pheasants to be shot, want my father or my godfather to bring them down so we could string them in the game larder for plucking and eating. Dad was, at that time one of the finest gentleman shots in Aberdeenshire, would seldom disappoint. With skill and poise he would stand in the field waiting for the frenzied “Brbrbrbraa” of male pheasants approaching fast over the tree-line, my trusted Labrador standing sentry-like by his wellington boots, she as exited for the kill as her masters.
They would come fast, the cocks and hens propelled by my flag, appear for a few brief seconds and in that time my fathers shotgun would rise up in a perfect ark, the stock biting his shoulder. There would be two explosions in quick succession, a bird would tumble earthwards and he would break the shotgun and have it reloaded in an instance.
Afterwards, as we beaters finished combing the woods, godfather Duff would blow on the white bone horn hanging from one shoulder to single a end to the shooting. I would stop walking for a minute on the brow of a hill overlooking the drive where I could just make out the shapes of men, dogs and guns, grip my hat in hand as the wind ruffled my hair and lean my stick against a tree. In that instance, and this is what my brother never understood as he gave up his gun and the countryside, I was truly a part of my land.

Monday, September 08, 2008

Aberdeenshire, Scotland

Finally, I have my voice back. After a long absence I am a student again, I can open my computer, look around for a second and begin to write. This is motivated by the fact that, by Thursday lunchtime, I shall be in America. My old blue backpack on my back and Blunstones tramping down upon the road, my destination will be Franklin Pierce University in the wooded border of New Hampshire and Massachusetts, close to where I boarded the white Shackleton school bus for the first time. Something obviously drags me back to New England and like Simon I find myself wondering every time I arrive into Boston’s Logan Airport quite why I’m there.
Things are different now from how they were, I no longer have quite the same mentality I used to. Yes I like to have fun, and perhaps I over do it on occasion but now I am determined to work. I am returning to the world of students, and this time I am ready to sit down and study, to stand out from the crowd in a positive way and become the best role model I can.

As I’m going to be working very hard I technically won’t have as much time to write the blog as I used to. Because of this I will be compromising slightly and, if I work on a piece for a class that is relevant or that I like, it will be included. If you, the reader doesn’t like the way this is working out at any point just fire me off an e-mail. Anyway…

I had to write an application letter for the school and helped get me in, I wrote it like I used to and put as much passion into it as I could. It was a small essay but it meant something to me, for I wrote about El Salvador. I let myself be brought back to standing in a hot room in shirtsleeves listening to the sound of children’s laughter and looking at the alost-jungle through the open hospital door.

Franklin Pierce Application Essay

It is hard to tell the age of a child or young person in rural El Salvador. One sees kids, playing in groups along the sides of dusty roads or standing quietly outside their mud-brick houses in little more than rags, but who knows how old they are. Many are so malnourished that in some cases that they could be mistaken for seven when they are in fact eleven, their arms spindly and their skin covered with a patchwork of rashes.
I realized this soon after arriving in the small Central American country for the second time, standing with sweat forming underneath the broken stethoscope slung around my neck, an old air-conditioner in the corner, vainly fighting back the tropical heat. A young girl, maybe fourteen, stood before me in a dirty red dress, pretty despite a strange blankness in her eyes, clutching a screaming baby that was in the process of emptying its bladder upon the dirty hospital floor. As the girl noticed the puddle at her feet she was embarrassed and quickly tried to mop it up with one shoe, though her efforts were in vain and the once-white tiles just looked even browner than before. As her attention was taken by this operation I turned to Dr. Perez, my boss, and asked some vague medical question about this girl and young girl and her baby sister.
‘That’s not the sister’ Perez replied, looking at me with his owl-like glasses and crooked yellow teeth, ‘That’s the mother. We try to stop them marrying before they finish school but it is very difficult’
Later that night, as I relaxed on my bed, looking up at the corrugated iron ceiling I thought about the young seventeen-year-old boy who shared the small breezeblock room with me. I had interviewed him the first time I came to El Salvador, as he was the leader of a socialist youth group, and even then I had realized that here was yet another young person without childhood. He had been born not in the village of Santa Marta where he now lives, but in a dirty refugee camp across the Rio Lempa in Honduras, soon after his whole family had fled across that thin blue line with government troops hard on their heels. Many of the very young and very old were killed by mortar fire or drowned in the river and those who survived either picked up guns and returned to their country as hunted rebels or eked out a living in the Honduran camps.
To have been born in the camps is normality for the teenagers of Santa Marta; all of them were. Now they and their families have returned to the village, where they must try to live again, reminded of their past most of the time but talking of it only in the quiet hours before bed, when the village is silent except for the wails of howling dogs.
It will be a little easier for those born now, there will be no memories of crowded U.N tents, swooping government helicopters or any of the harsh war memories that inflict so many of the older generations. Though their bellies will not be full, as I know too well from watching Perez drawing the line diagrams that show the progression of their malnutrition, their minds will be fresh and looked after, untouched by war. I remember watching them on my way to work, running and shouting with smiles on their faces and queuing for a check-up at the hospital in a long boisterous line. It gave me some hope for El Salvador, though at the back of my mind I knew there was a group of child soldiers guarding the road junction just up the valley, their faces placid and guns in their small hands.