Sunday, June 18, 2006

Boston, U.S.A

I returned to the United States of America at eleven on a cloudless summer night. Cloudless that is in Boston, in the U.K my planes were chased by bad weather and consequently delayed, the end result being me sitting sweaty and gross on a hulking 747 that refused to move until we were all ready to crucify the air traffic controllers in their air conditioned office. When I eventually landed in America the door hissed open and the passengers emerged white and clammy, gasping at the clean air in a similar state to rescued submariners. As I pushed past the mass of humanity trying to escape our aluminum prison and walked down the labyrinthine corridors common place in all airports, I felt my stomach twist itself into knots. This was (A) due to British Airways food (an oxymoron I’m sure you’ll agree) and (B) to the prospect of the dreaded customs officials that I rightly suspected were skulking around every corner.
What is it about American customs officials that make me feel like I’ve entered a totalitarian dictatorship whenever I pass through their officious grasp? According to my mother “guns and snappy uniforms” turn these mild mannered people into lecturing megalomaniacs who delight at the discomfort one shows as they read and reread your passport as if it were the bible. I half expected the customs team to begin speaking German and end each transaction with a precise “Heil.” This time however I offer customs no quarter and, as it’s nearly midnight, the poor man at his little kiosk lets me through at double time once I’ve explained my failure to fill out entry forms stems from my status as both resident and visitor.
I grabbed my bag in record time, hoisted it over my shoulder and walked slowly into the echoing arrivals hall with its glass walls and shiny metal surfaces. There I met Alexis, swaying slightly she was so tired, and was gratefully bundled into the back of her boyfriend Bobbies retro Mercedes (the sort everyone drives is Russian spy films), resisting the temptation to look behind for secret police in unmarked cars. Through Boston we were quite, the easy silence of good friends traveling together. Bobby steered us away from Logan, over the concrete spine of the big dig and down into Back Bay, a town sleepy now the students have left for the summer. We parked outside his frat, a red-bricked building with a small plaque by the front doors discreetly displaying the fraternity’s letters.
Later that night I lay slumped on a leather sofa in the wood paneled Charter Room, the lamps turned low. On the staircase outside are lined the portraits of young men who’d once lived here, the overall style waxing and waning through the decades. In one the boys are in black and white, their hair cowlicked and clothes smart, in another someone posses in 80s blues brother glasses. I laugh now and imagine the frat with a little bit of Harry Potter mixed in, the pictures talking to each other and swapping frames.

No comments: